Easter Weekend on Arranmore

Easter Greetings from Sunny Arainn Mhor

Easter came with a flourish to the island of Árainn Mhór in 2014.  It brought with it, islanders returning home from working abroad, holiday makers from near and far and wonderful sunshine which brought in many day trippers. Fifteen Irish Americans traveled from Beaver Island and their mainland port Charlevoix, Michigan to embrace their heritage, make music and have some craic.  For some it was their virgin voyage.  

The Dunbrody famine ship New Ross, Co Wexford

 In 1847, during the famine, the society of friends (the Quakers) sent 2 famine (coffin) ships from Árainn Mhór to Beaver Island, USA, where they settled and lived much as they had done here on this side of the Atlantic, fishing, farming and  getting on with life. Many of the names are the same on both sides of the ocean; I met a man called Larry Cross whose mother’s maiden name is my own, Shirley Anne Gallagher. Their community has developed a unique identity that was enhanced by the island's isolation from the mainland. Church services and even ordinary conversations were conducted in Gaelic for many years. The twinning of the two islands in 2000, strengthens the bond from the famine times. The Beaver Islanders came as tourists and left as friends.  They returned to their roots on Árainn Mhór Island for Easter 2014 before traveling onwards to Donegal Town, and Dublin before returning to the Great Lakes. 

Danny Gillespie and his wife Tami and children Shannon and Murphy are on Irish soil for their first time.  Danny Johnston is 74 years of age; he has recently been inducted into the hall of fame in Michigan for his contribution to traditional music for fiddle playing.  He is a great performer and works with other traditional artists.  It was a true pleasure to listen to Danny (fiddle) and the Beaver entourage Danny Gillespie (fiddle), and Jesuit Brother Jim Boynton (guitar) from nearby Mackinac Island.

From L-R Neil Gallagher (guitar), Eamon Dolly (flute) Danny Johnstgon (fiddle),  Danny Gillespie (fiddle), Brother Jim Boynton (fiddle) in Neilie's Bar, Árainn Mhór

The following evening, further east in Jerry Early’s bar, the Beaver island gang mixed with Anne Conaghan, John Flanagan, Eamon Dolly, John Gallagher, Jerry Early and Aine from the Port played bodhran and spoons were played by City Councillor from Charlevoix Shirley Gibson and Cheryl. Anne, John and Eamon are rooted to playing traditional music.  They rarely sing.  Jerry and John play folk which is mainly Irish with some Scottish tunes thrown into the mix, a nod to the place John has been raised in by his Donegal parents.  It was interesting to see and hear the manner in which the Americans played.  The Beaver islanders played the tune of the first verse of a song, then they sang two verses of a song, while the guitar accompanied the singer, then the melody was played on the violins as a bridge (a break, middle 8 for the singers). The song was then finished by the singers harmonising to finish the song.  It was beautiful to hear.  

There was a distinct French Canadian style to many of the songs with others celebrating the traditions of where they live such as the ‘Maple Syrup Song’.  The generosity of sharing of the story of the song as well as the songs themselves was a bonus, a memory to treasure.  The song 'The Boys of Blue Hill' is a standard song, an easy song to learn and it allows learners to play with more experienced players. Anne suggested it to allow John and Dara to join in and Brother Jim pipes up 'Wow, I know that tune, a Native American Indian guy taught me that years ago’. So the chords entwined across the sea as Dara Flanagan aged 11 started the tune with the tin whistle. The haunting flute created another layer of beauty threading  through the tones of the reeds and the strings of the fiddles and guitars.  Local Andrew Early sang 'The Rocks of Bawn' and later 'The Jersey Bull' telling their story in rhyme and verse .

‘Overwhelmed’ is the one word Anne, an accomplished musician describes the night and she expanded to say "It was a completely different flavour; there was a courtesy in not clashing the cultures and learning from each other.  The style of play is unique to each player, the fiddles harmonized so beautifully that they became art forms in their own right.  A completely unique experience - a memory to treasure forever, the unusual and the familiar together in unison."   Anne’s roots are on Arainn Mhor, both her parents are from the island and have returned once more to their roots after spending most of their working lives in London.  Anne said "I feel at home here but it's not my home". She visits often from Beal Cú, Fermanagh where she lives with her family, husband John and children Kieran and Dara teaching and playing traditional music in all its shapes and forms. The musicians played for nine hours from 6pm to 3am, a fitting tribute to our cultural heritage and diversity.

They played with the Árainn crew combining the tunes of Árainn Mhór, Ireland and the shores of Lake Michigan.  Playing with musicians of many disciplines from fiddle, guitar, flute, accordion, tin whistle, drum and piano, the passion and flair for music was a joy to behold.  They played for a good part of Saturday in Killeens Hotel before heading east to Neilie’s pub where Neil Gallagher accompanied them on guitar and Eamonn Dolly on flute, where Michelle Gallagher gave us a song ‘Black is the Colour’.  'Danny boy' is the Beaver Island theme tune and was the finale and the Ulster Anthem was a fitting end to the Arranmore Island pub sing song.

 

From L-R Eamonn Dolly, Paddy Gallagher, Anne Conaghan and Dara Flanagan

Easter Monday, the Árainn Mhór pipe band came out to say 'Slan go Foill' (bye for now) to the Beaver Islanders and Congratulations and Se de Bheatha (welcome) to our Tug-O-War World Champion Edward Gallagher and his team Clomany B.  His sister Annette put on a spread fit for a King and indeed the Island King himself Eddie 'Smiler' Boyle was there to spread the cheer.  Anne Conaghan (accordion) was back with the old reliable local musicians Connie (drums), Eamon (flute), Paddy (accordion) and Dara on tin whistle.   The sun shone, the kids danced and Arranmore on the edge of the world embraced everyone and reached out to all cultures and bound us together through song, music and laughter.

By Shirley Gallagher